Thursday, January 28, 2010

Train Journeys, Unexpected Delays and Transcendence.


Was on a Study Tour recently with my students. Travelling on an unbelievably tight budget, we had to travel by train, second class sleeper, non- AC. I realised I hadn't had too much experience travelling by train, and I can't say I regret that lack. I warned my students not to be "princesses" and to be tough and stoic come what may. I must say I myself was a bit unprepared for the filth, the cacophony of vendors and beggars and hijras that burst into the compartment whenever the train stopped, the condition of the washrooms (!!!) and the total chaos regarding tickets and seats. Unless one sat steadfastly in one's seat all the time, any number of ticketless travellers assumed that they had the right to plonk down on the seats, without so much as a by-your-leave.

The food was relatively decent, except, of course, if you get stuck in some bizarre railway traffic situation in the middle of goodness-knows-where, and are forced to spend an extra day and night on the train, then nothing tastes too good anymore. By the third day, all of us were eagerly awaiting the arrival of peddlers who came to sell their wares- bracelets, keychains, torches, sauna belts, chains and locks, knives... in short, most everything. One man even came with a number of mobile handsets, shouting "PCO", so I assume it was possible to make calls from his numerous phones. Bargaining became an art, with all of us trying to outdo the other in the loud and lengthy negotiations that took place. Our broken Hindi didn't help. I got conned into buying a solar mobile phone charger, which charged the phone for precisely 5 minutes, after which there was no more life evident from my phone. A hundred rupees. I was also robbed of the Woodland sandals I was wearing. When I got down from the top berth, it simply wasn't there anymore.

Anyway, notwithstanding my initial revulsion and boredom, by the end of the third day of the third journey by train, I was able to cope with most things, and when I finally stepped down on the platform at the last station, I had finished three novels, numerous magazines, and was loaded down with a motley collection of trinkets and gadgets bought on the train. A little worse for wear, but that much richer in experience. That's life.

Oh, and I'll save the story about the bedbugs for next time :)

18 comments:

  1. And this train journey is supposed to take you where? My side of the country I hope :) Also, you can consult me - the master of second class Indian train travels with any of your second-class journey queries anytime :D

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  2. jerusha: the trip was guwahati- bangalore- mumbai- guwahati :) Am finally back home. Will definitely rely on your know-how next time!

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  3. I've traveled alone enough on 2nd class tickets to know that the first 2 compartments on either side of each bogey stinks even more in Monsoons, electronics bought lasts twice the length of the journey and being extremely paranoid on board may save your luggage yet. :P
    But its a whole different experience when traveling in a group, esp. when the journey is home-bound!

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  4. Ah educational excursions. I went on one of those as a college kid and we rattled around the country in dusty, peddler-infested trains just like you. Except our tour was in the height of summer! My sister had gone a couple of years before so I was really keen to go too and it was definitely a great experience. Travelling by train in summer with a large crowd when you're just 17 isn't unpleasant at all. I have truly cherished memories of it.

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  5. my delayed train was better..i guess...1st class AC :D

    the train which I was suppose to board was cancelled and I managed to get a seat for the train that was suppose to leave at 8:30 AM but left at 10:30 PM

    though it was only 24hrs journey, it took us around 35hrs to reach Delhi

    huge mistake to take train to Delhi during winter

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  6. And just how long were you here in Mumbai? :(

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  7. @ blackestred: lol you got that right about the stinking loos hehe. Man oh man!

    @ Calliopia: Summer in Indian trains would have been a truly different experience, but I'm glad you are far from being traumatised by it! :P

    @Almost Unreal: Lucky you! Couldn't afford those on a Study Tour budget.

    @Illusionaire: Boss, I swear I tried to contact you, but two things kept me away: I seem to have lost your number, and I had too many people making too many demands to look after, so I knew I wasnt going to be good company :( to answer your question, 4 days.

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  8. the experience you get travelling by train is worthwhile :-)

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  9. All's well that ends well, right? You got back safe home and gained a load of experiences. Sorry for the downsides & losses, though. Our family of four used to do that kind of travel every alternate year on a four day journey one way, with two hyper active kids.

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  10. Kan tlangval laia, India ram dung leh vang, second class ticket pawh confirm lohva, news paper vel phah a kan zin kual ve thin lai min tihrechhuak daih maia ! :-)

    I student-te chu an hmai a van fai hlawm ve ! :-D

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  11. You remind me of my student days of travelling in the same class at Coromandel Express between Kolkata and Chennai (then Madras)!

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  12. Dear keichala, mesjay, seki and keimah: You guys been there, done that, and from the sound of it, done it with the right attitude too! I agree these are quite memorable experiences [if sometimes a little bit traumatic :P].

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  13. Hun awla chhiar a nuam,manhla thei khawp mai.Rel chuan hi a nuam danglamdai ve riau a sin.

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  14. What a coincidence, had my new pair of woodland shoes flicked while i was asleep. Like you, when I woke up it wasnt simply there....end of the line
    When I was doing my undergrad, I had the experience of travelling from Guwahati to chennai sharing a bunk with a Paite boy, Chennai to Howrah unreserved and vice versa. While prparing for PG, had to travel 2 sleeper from Delhi to Howrah through UP and Bihar. During the day, u cant even get up from ur seat, its like the most crowded bus you can imagine....i swore never to travel by 2 sleeper in that region...ever again

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  15. On the other hand, I also am quite masterful in travelling 2nd class like Jerusha...I can comfortably take a bath in the bathrooms, know which stations have the nice biryani and fill myself up on juice so i wont have unnecessary bowel movement

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  16. @dochlua: I van ti lawmawm ve. Lo leng lut ziah rawh aw.

    @Opa: lolzzz.... u lost your shoes too? Now I don't feel so stupid, much as I sympathize with you. AS for taking a bath in the toilets... wow! I do humbly prostrate myself before your awesomeness!

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  17. I was also robbed of the Woodland sandals I was wearing. When I got down from the top berth, it simply wasn't there anymore.

    Vai ho te chu thuthleng hnuaia chewing gum bel pawh an ru duh zel alom lol. Anyway nice post.

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  18. For those who have had this kind of Indian train experiences knew exactly whatever you have written about were so true. I found it really funny too, especially vending the PCO !

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